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I’m not sure, you’ll have to check the manufacturer’s spec sheet. I would think any fabric material would catch fire.

What overlay or what model hinges am I using?

Not everyone knows this. There are some beginners and even intermediate woodworkers on here also.

Not everyone watching is an expert. You were once a beginner too. I’m sure you didn’t teach yourself everything. I’m trying to help all levels.

It’s always good to give refreshers, also not everyone on here has the experience. So I try to make sure even the beginners are learning and hopefully I’m making woodworking and carpentry more fun and engaging for all.

The festool stm1800 is super hard to find, they don’t even have it on Amazon. I purchased it over 2 years ago and at that time, I bought the last one on the entire East coast. You’re going to have to keep doing a google search and also call festool dealers to try and find one in stock. I think they’re back ordered again.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thank you Anthony

That was a hand plane, but I just held it at a 45 degree angle while running it down the length of the board.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 Wow! Thanks for the speedy reply. My plane must need sharpened (along w my skills). I’m not sure I could do that w a hand plane. So sorry for another question, however - what species of wood did you use? I’m going to try and build the same door. I’m a DIYer, and I don’t have all of the tools you have, but I’m going to give it my best shot. Great looking door! Fabulous work.

@@dalepetrak5688 knotty Alder wood. I buy it rough sawn from my hardwood dealer and mill it myself to S4S. If you’re buying it already S4S it will be expensive and you have to make sure it’s really straight and the moisture content is 10% or lower.

Years ago I made a video showing how to use pegboard to make bench dog holes. You can find it on my channel.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 thank you. Enjoy your channel very much. I’m not a Fesstool guy but am very I,pressed with how you have put together a shop with the Fesstool product line. Thanks again.

@@flexmasterson4297 glad to hear your enjoying the content!

I thinned it by 10% and it sprayed beautifully, but when I spray it with airless, I don’t thin it and it sprays even better.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 thanks! They list it as no need to thin with Hvlp, but I don’t believe that.

Always subtract for the reveal. I have a video on how I make cabinet doors and get the measurements. It’s in my cabinet making series playlist

It actually does make sense to me lol, but I’ve never had that problem scribing boards to a wall or ceiling. but if the angle of your scribe line is that extreme where it would cause you to hit the back of the blade, either use a jig saw for that, or just cut close enough to the line with the table saw and finish it up to the line with a block plane or power sander.

It doesn’t matter if the floor is not level at all. Once you place it on your saw top and hit the zero button, that becomes the level 0 position. Then when you put it on your blade, it reads the angle in relation to the table. As far as cuts not being straight, check your blade for runout and warping. Also makes sure you are using the correct blade for the type of cuts you’re making and the material you’re cutting as well. No one blade really “does it all”. I have a video of how I set up my table saw on my channel if you haven’t already seen it, hopefully that will help.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 will do. Thank you!

Everything in woodworking is dangerous. This method is used by the best of carpenters and has taught for many decades.

Who said I don’t use it. It’s on my mft for a reason. Go to the description box and click on my TSO link and you can purchase one there.

That and more junk everywhere. The ultimate solution to echos.

What dust extractor do you have?What are you sanding? Because I use it for my miter saw, track saw, domino, routers and sanding and I haven’t had to change the bag in 2 years. It’s just filling up now. I empty the bin twice a week. And I’m sure you’ve seen, I do work on a professional level, besides my own work, which is a lot of volume. Please elaborate more on your setup and(dust extractor) and what you are sanding. So maybe I can help.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 I have the CT26 e Hepa with the cyclone.

@@CustomWoodWorkDecor what are you sanding? Hopefully not drywall. And are your hoses hooked up to the correct ports? Because if they’re backwards, the dust will bypass the cyclone and go straight to the bag.

I had a sawstop years ago in my small basement shop and sold it when I didn’t have room anymore . It was a good saw but they priced themselves out of the market for me. I don’t require the blade stopping technology and hated shutting it off when some wood had a high moisture content, which makes the technology useless for safety anyway if you have to shut it off. So I went with Harvey and it’s the same quality in my opinion.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 oh wow you’re right. Just checked. Almost half the price.

I never go less than 50mm or roughly 2 inches wide.

Thank you, I put a link in the description for those.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thankyou! Very helpful.

This door was for a face frame cabinet.

I don’t cut on the flat because it’s much slower. Too much movement of the saw having to bevel it each way and swing it side to side every time you have to make a cut. Nested position I’m showing here is the fastest and easiest way.

No, I started almost 3 years ago and I still switch between metric and imperial. I’m not exclusive to one specific system. I find them both to be great for specific situations.

Yes, you cut a butt joint on one side and cope the other side.

@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks

You probably didn’t see it because I’m moving fast and the lights drown it out, but one to 3 edges of all these are edge banded. These are all end panels of the cabinets, so the unfinished edge you are seeing is the part that will be against the wall, facing down on a toe kick or under a countertop. I have videos on edge banding, just head to my channel and search the playlists and you’ll find them.

Right now it’s temporary. As the shop progresses and I have time, I’ll be building a large, mobile outfeed table that will double as a workbench/assembly table. Remember, this is a new shop and the setup will change probably a few times before I get my permanent and most efficient flow. So far things are working fine for now.